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spacer Chef Tom Naito offers up delicious sushi mixed with international influences at Tomo.
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Fusing East and West
Tomo brings innovative style to Cobb Parkway, joining Japanese food with world flavors.

By SALLY HANSELL
NOV. 18, 2005
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SALLY HANSELL

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3256 Cobb Parkway, Vinings
770-690-0555
www.tomorestaurant.com

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Tomohiro Naito sliced sushi for superstars in the lavish restaurant world of Las Vegas, and now he’s reeling in Atlanta sushi lovers with fish flown in daily from Japan and a fusion style that blends flavors from around the world.

Naito and his wife, Kimiko, opened namesake Tomo Japanese Restaurant several months ago in Vinings, quite a jump from Las Vegas.

The menu offers an extensive list of daily appetizer specials including straightforward Japanese food as well as dishes showcasing Naito’s flair for fusion.

Naito previously headed a sushi station at Nobu restaurant at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas, where he perfected mingling international ingredients under celebrated chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, who owns 16 Nobus worldwide.

The chef is joined at the Tomo sushi bar by Iwan Lim of Indonesia, who carries the pedigree of former head sushi chef at Nakato Japanese restaurant in Atlanta.

For a dazzling interplay of flavors, order the tuna tar tar appetizer special, a stacked creation with two layers of finely chopped raw tuna sandwiching white Japanese yam ($9). Naito accents the fish with dashi broth, scallions and pink peppercorns before drizzling a balsamic glaze around the plate and sprinkling crushed pistachios like encrusted jewels in the glaze.

Other recommendations include the soft shell crab salad, grilled salmon, steamed spinach sprinkled with ground sesame seeds and Japanese pickles marinated in rice bran. Whole live abalone from California and blue fin toro also are sometimes available.

Grilled appetizer standouts include the sliced octopus, its pink edges charred, and the yellowtail “neck meat” still clinging to a big shard of bone ($12). The collar is a particularly sweet cut, and diners are likely to be tempted to pluck the last rich morsels from between skin and bone.

Naito’s vegetable appetizer (taki-awase, $8) is a still-life of transformed vegetables, including chiseled stalks of emerald green Chinese broccoli, perfect balls of mashed taro and to-die-for eggplant transformed into spears. The conglomeration illustrates the Japanese love of joining different colors, shapes and textures.

A ying-yang sensibility carries into the restaurant’s decor, where Japanese tradition marries sleek modernism. One wall is adorned with panels made from a kimono that Mrs. Naito wore in her 20s, and metallic place mats from Ikea brighten black tables. A cherry red bathroom features a glass sink resting on black stones evoking a Japanese garden.

Naito and his wife are potters as well as chefs, creating ceramic plates in their spare time. The sushi bar is graced with a Japanese basket of wild flowers one day and with one of Naito’s stunning ceramic chargers the next.

They don’t yet serve customers with their own pottery, but the Naitos use an eclectic collection of plates including glass, ceramic, porcelain and lacquered ware that allow various interplays of texture and color with foods.

“Whenever I find good plates, I just buy them,” Naito says.

The peaceful music at Tomo also enhances the overall tranquil experience. Japanese new age sounds, soft jazz and the deliberate, floating piano notes of a George Winston composition each provides nice background music for eating sushi.

Born in Osaka, Naito came to the U.S. to study theater when he started working nights at Japanese restaurants in Manhattan. After graduating, he worked at restaurants across the U.S. and broadened his knowledge by working with French and Italian cuisine.

Italian fare provides the inspiration for yellowtail tempura roll with roasted garlic, roasted bell pepper and a creamy sake gorgonzola sauce ($10), an ambitious but odd combination that is not one of my favorites.

Desserts made by Mrs. Naito are light and refreshing. They satisfy after a just few bites.

A homemade truffle accompanies Green tea cheesecake and ginger cheesecake, and plum wine jelly offers bursts of flavor with black soybeans cooked in red wine.






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