Tomohiro
Naito
sliced
sushi
for
superstars
in
the
lavish
restaurant
world
of
Las
Vegas,
and
now
he’s
reeling
in
Atlanta
sushi
lovers
with
fish
flown
in
daily
from
Japan
and
a
fusion
style
that
blends
flavors
from
around
the
world.
Naito
and
his
wife,
Kimiko,
opened
namesake
Tomo
Japanese
Restaurant
several
months
ago
in
Vinings,
quite
a
jump
from
Las
Vegas.
The
menu
offers
an
extensive
list
of
daily
appetizer
specials
including
straightforward
Japanese
food
as
well
as
dishes
showcasing
Naito’s
flair
for
fusion.
Naito
previously
headed
a
sushi
station
at
Nobu
restaurant
at
the
Hard
Rock
Hotel
&
Casino
in
Las
Vegas,
where
he
perfected
mingling
international
ingredients
under
celebrated
chef
Nobuyuki
Matsuhisa,
who
owns
16
Nobus
worldwide.
The
chef
is
joined
at
the
Tomo
sushi
bar
by
Iwan
Lim
of
Indonesia,
who
carries
the
pedigree
of
former
head
sushi
chef
at
Nakato
Japanese
restaurant
in
Atlanta.
For
a
dazzling
interplay
of
flavors,
order
the
tuna
tar
tar
appetizer
special,
a
stacked
creation
with
two
layers
of
finely
chopped
raw
tuna
sandwiching
white
Japanese
yam
($9).
Naito
accents
the
fish
with
dashi
broth,
scallions
and
pink
peppercorns
before
drizzling
a
balsamic
glaze
around
the
plate
and
sprinkling
crushed
pistachios
like
encrusted
jewels
in
the
glaze.
Other
recommendations
include
the
soft
shell
crab
salad,
grilled
salmon,
steamed
spinach
sprinkled
with
ground
sesame
seeds
and
Japanese
pickles
marinated
in
rice
bran.
Whole
live
abalone
from
California
and
blue
fin
toro
also
are
sometimes
available.
Grilled
appetizer
standouts
include
the
sliced
octopus,
its
pink
edges
charred,
and
the
yellowtail
“neck
meat”
still
clinging
to
a
big
shard
of
bone
($12).
The
collar
is
a
particularly
sweet
cut,
and
diners
are
likely
to
be
tempted
to
pluck
the
last
rich
morsels
from
between
skin
and
bone.
Naito’s
vegetable
appetizer
(taki-awase,
$8)
is
a
still-life
of
transformed
vegetables,
including
chiseled
stalks
of
emerald
green
Chinese
broccoli,
perfect
balls
of
mashed
taro
and
to-die-for
eggplant
transformed
into
spears.
The
conglomeration
illustrates
the
Japanese
love
of
joining
different
colors,
shapes
and
textures.
A
ying-yang
sensibility
carries
into
the
restaurant’s
decor,
where
Japanese
tradition
marries
sleek
modernism.
One
wall
is
adorned
with
panels
made
from
a
kimono
that
Mrs.
Naito
wore
in
her
20s,
and
metallic
place
mats
from
Ikea
brighten
black
tables.
A
cherry
red
bathroom
features
a
glass
sink
resting
on
black
stones
evoking
a
Japanese
garden.
Naito
and
his
wife
are
potters
as
well
as
chefs,
creating
ceramic
plates
in
their
spare
time.
The
sushi
bar
is
graced
with
a
Japanese
basket
of
wild
flowers
one
day
and
with
one
of
Naito’s
stunning
ceramic
chargers
the
next.
They
don’t
yet
serve
customers
with
their
own
pottery,
but
the
Naitos
use
an
eclectic
collection
of
plates
including
glass,
ceramic,
porcelain
and
lacquered
ware
that
allow
various
interplays
of
texture
and
color
with
foods.
“Whenever
I
find
good
plates,
I
just
buy
them,”
Naito
says.
The
peaceful
music
at
Tomo
also
enhances
the
overall
tranquil
experience.
Japanese
new
age
sounds,
soft
jazz
and
the
deliberate,
floating
piano
notes
of
a
George
Winston
composition
each
provides
nice
background
music
for
eating
sushi.
Born
in
Osaka,
Naito
came
to
the
U.S.
to
study
theater
when
he
started
working
nights
at
Japanese
restaurants
in
Manhattan.
After
graduating,
he
worked
at
restaurants
across
the
U.S.
and
broadened
his
knowledge
by
working
with
French
and
Italian
cuisine.
Italian
fare
provides
the
inspiration
for
yellowtail
tempura
roll
with
roasted
garlic,
roasted
bell
pepper
and
a
creamy
sake
gorgonzola
sauce
($10),
an
ambitious
but
odd
combination
that
is
not
one
of
my
favorites.
Desserts
made
by
Mrs.
Naito
are
light
and
refreshing.
They
satisfy
after
a
just
few
bites.
A
homemade
truffle
accompanies
Green
tea
cheesecake
and
ginger
cheesecake,
and
plum
wine
jelly
offers
bursts
of
flavor
with
black
soybeans
cooked
in
red
wine.